Having a hard time training?Or just want to know new tricks?

[!Blondie!]

As I said before I have a beagle puppy,I got her today from a pet store,is a collet and a leash best,or a harness?

[Jazi]

I've also got Control Unleashed and When Pigs Fly, which are also geared toward reaction/aggression. They're highly recommended on my Dober forum ;] The rest, though, are some pretty inventive ways that I hadn't thought of! And I'll be adding those books to my collection very soon. Thanks very much, Cardinal.

[Bethicus]

I got you. =)

The BIGGEST thing is going to be building confidence! 110% important and it'll come really quick when he actually enjoys working with you. Once he realizes that working with and for you is actually FUN he'll come more out of his shell and be way more willing to perform.

Its all going to be desensitizing work for handling, grabbing collars, and meeting new people. He gives warnings.. thats great! Warnings are an amazing thing and thank god his previous owners didn't take them away or you'd have a much more dangerous dog on your hands. x.x From here the best thing to do is play games.. with his feet and handling. Try teaching 'paw' or 'shake' first and foremost. Ball your fist and clicker for any pawsyness with his balled hand. Add your cue afterwards. Make handling an awesome experience. Lift his paws and click. Lift his paws and click. Once he's comfy with his paws being handled move on to manipulating his toes and nails then clicking. Rinse and repeate. Once he's bullet proof about his paws feel him down then click and treat. You can also try actual massages after a long day and he's completely warn out with loads of petting and praise.

Th stranger wariness should go away on its own, but you can always teach a 'go say hi' command. Invite people over he doesn't know and have them hold out their hands. When he chooses to interact with the person click and treat.

The collar issue can be a bit more tricky and is once again desensitization work. Desensitizing him to the collar/pressure. I'd start off with when he's wearing the collar petting around him around it and clicking for calmness/ignoring it. More on to slipping your fingers under the collar like you would to judge tightness. Click and reward. Slight pressure.. click and reward. More pressure click and reward.

Always always always end on a positive note even if the training didn't quite go the way you wanted it to. Remember that repetition is KEY and you will be doing it over and over and over again with tiny baby steps, if he EVER shows distress signals then back up to the step where he was calm and work on that before advancing again, distress signals means you moved to fast. The book Behavior Adjustment Training by Grisha Stewart may be worth picking up. Click to Clam: Healling the Aggressive Dog I think would be well worth your time, its written by Emma Parsons. Anything by Karen Pryor I highly recommend and I'm pretty sure she has reading material on fear aggression.

If I think of ANYTHING else I'll pass it over. ^^;

^^^^ THIS ^^^^^
I used to have a fear aggressive dog (the aggression was mainly towards dogs as they're more outwardly curious and 'I'm going to run straight up to you' than people are, as I was lucky and the people I met at the start were all knowledgeable enough to know to be slow and cautious with him, so he never actually snapped at them. just the tail tuck, head down, hackles up back away thing, and eventually coming forward for food and eventually letting people stroke him without shying away) and he's trained out of it now.
As for the colar thing, I would suggest that once he's used to the pressure of fingers around his collar, you clip a lead to him and carry on like you were before, and then slowly increase the pressure that you can pull him on the lead at. Don't pull hard or hurt him, as you obviously know, but work up to a point that if you do accidentally jerk hard one time (Say you fall over, or trip, or the lead gets caught) he will just look back like 'whut did i do' rather than 'argh! geddoff me! hdiwdcbhaskdj!!!!'
It's basically just a long road of desensitizing and refocusing the energy as Cardinal says ^.^ I'd say start working on the leash thing straight away, so you can get some proper hard exercise in, as I found that with Ozzy the longer, more tiring walks built a stronger bond between us. (I don't know whether there's somewhere you can let him off and not have to worry about him running off, or another dog owner or dog getting in the way. Even if he doesn't have dog issues, I'd find it helpful for the first few walks for it just to be me and the dog, so I could assess for myself any things on a walk that set anything off - dogs, cats, cars, lorries, traffic lights etc)

[Cardinal]

Quick update!

Lucky has progressed to 30 second sit-stays with a distance of about 10 feet! And now we're working on a solid release command which is going fantastically and MUCH quicker than the actual sit-stays. xD We're ASLO working on me being able to turn my back to her and THEN walk the ten feet. =)

[Bethicus]

Woo!!! well done! It looks like you guys are working hard and making great progress!!

[!Blondie!]

puppy potty training tips?

[Cardinal]

puppy potty training tips?

Ignore all accidents unless you see it happening. If you see it happening make a startling noise like clapping your hands to startle the puppy out of it then scoop the pup up and rush outside. Bring the puppy out every hour to half hour and throw a huge freaking party when the puppy goes outside with tons of praise and treats.

[Ѧʋƨιc]

Hi, Anyone got tips for biting? When every my dog comes in. He rushes to the living room and gets into a playful mode. He likes to steal blankets and bite us? Got any tips. Things you should know. his breed does not listen very well,but he knows basic tricks and listen perfectly. Please reply soon!

[Bethicus]

With biting (even excited biting) I always find it best to use the quickest method, even if it seems a bit cruel or mean. Obviously, I don't mean anything so cruel as to hit the dog, as that's not right at all, and that's literally cruel >.< What I mean, is don't feed his excitement. What I did to my dog, is when he comes in all excited, and starts to nip etc, just ignore him. Don't look at him or praise or touch him at all. He may try harder to get your attention but just ignore him - and make sure everyone else does too. This is basically a waiting game, seeing who can keep up for the longest, and you NEED to win. He will calm down after a while, once he realises it's not working and getting what he wants, and when this happens you click and treat him if you clicker train. If you don't clicker train, it may be a bit harder. When he's calmed down, you will have to turn to him and fuss him - calmly - but if he gets too excited again, or starts to nip, immediately pull away stand up straight and ignore him, and fuss him again when he's calm. He'll learn. do this with the blankets too - ignore him when he has them excitedly as he's trying to start a game. when you take them, take them calmly and slowly - not quickly or it'll mimic an excited movement.
another way, if the bites are too painful, is too add a high pitched squeal whenever he bites, and draw away and turn your back on him (this stops him thinking it's a playful squeal), keeping facing away when he tries to continue play.
You may wish to mix up those, or take a totally different option, it's up to you!

[Ѧʋƨιc]

Yeah we tried that. None of that works. He still thinks it is a game that we are ignoring us. So he keeps on doing it and doing it. He never stops. We also have tried the whine,but he thinks it is a game to make us whine. Thanks for trying though.