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Here you can find some guides and color palettes to help you out when making artist entries or MYOs for Return!

1. Starting with the tabby located on the face, tail, neck, and legs is the best start. Also included is a stripe or multiple stripes on the back, either being one continuous stripes, or 2 parallel stripes going along the back to the base of the tail.The stripes on classic tabbies are fewer in number than most other tabbies, opting to be often much thicker. However the thickness of the stripes varies between classic tabbies.

2. Next add the start of the "bullseye", which will determine most of the locations of the remaining stripes. The bullseye can appear in varying shapes and sizes but tends to be located more towards the back of the cat, rather than in the dead center. The bullseye can also appear broken from other stripes, or connected, depending on the tabby. The bullseye takes up the majority of the tabby, most often.

3. Add the final body stripes on the shoulders, thigh, and around the bullseye. The Bullseye placement can often affect the curve or placement of the stripes on the remaining areas. A reminder that classic tabbies do not have many stripes on the main part of the body as the bullseye takes the majority of the body space.

4. Make any touch ups to the tabby and add any finalizing touches! Remember that white markings will always show on top of the tabby and that other genes may effect the color/opacity of the tabby.

Silver classic tabbies are nearly the same, with the exception of the base coat being pale and the color of the tabby only showing through on the stripes (however silver can also affect tabby color in some cases).

Make the tabby on a separate layer to prevent a headache, then color the tabby itself the color of the point it normally would be as a solid (ex. This cat would normally be a seal colorpoint, so the base coat is very pale with grey on the tail, legs, and face, and the stripes are color of a typical seal colorpoint cat.)