taikunfoo wrote:Hey guys, I'd figure I'd drop in here for some advice. I'm planning on adopting my first dog this summer, and I've never owned/lived with a dog before. I love dogs, and my best friend has two small dogs that I see regularly and absolutely adore.
Some information about what I am looking for in terms of getting a dog:
I am planning on adopting a dog from a shelter, mutt preferred. I do not want a puppy, I want a young or adult (but not senior) dog that is medium or medium/large in size, with short hair. As much as I love pitt and pitt mixes, I will be renting housing, so I need to stay away from breeds and mixes that could result in having problems finding a place to live for me and the dog.
I'm planning on walking the dog with a harness, and giving them a martingale collar to wear at all times with ID. I also plan to have the dog chipped and spayed/neutered. I'm hoping for a low-medium energy dog, as I enjoy walking and hiking, and if I have enough time I can walk up to 10 miles in a day (although this doesn't happen often). I have a food brand picked out and I know how to transition them over to the new brand of food, if fed differently in the shelter.
Some questions hopefully some of you can help me with:
Do any of you have advice for a first time dog owner?
Is there anything you wish you would have known before getting a dog?
What are some common issues or problems you have to work around bringing home a new dog?
Are there any breeds or breed mixes that would (generally) be good for a first time dog owner?
Any breeds or breed mixes I should stay away from?
Best/worst training methods (I am planning on positive reinforcement training methods but any training advice is appreciated)
I live in an area with a temperature range between -40 and 90 degrees fahrenheit. Are there any special items I should have (ie booties for the feet, jackets/blankets, kiddy pool) to help with the temperature extremes?
Is there any special training that I should focus on/would be helpful? (Ie crate training, muzzle training, is quiet or stop barking training a thing?)
How much money should I set aside for adopting a new dog, crate/toys/bowls/leash/food/etc, vet visit, preventative medicines, etc, for the first month?
Any other advice that you can offer?
Thank you,
taikunfoo
Martingale collars are designed to keep the dog from slipping out of the collar by tightening around the dog's neck when attached to a leash. Without being attached to a leash they are a choking hazard. If you're going to use a harness anyway you don't need a martingale collar. A regular collar will be fine for ID
One of the most common mistake new dog owners make is giving the dog too much freedom too soon. It's overwhelming and can make potty training more difficult. Keep your dog confined when unsupervised (dog safe room with closed door, baby gate, crate etc.) and have the dog drag a leash around when it's out in case you have to move it such as to take it outside or get it off the couch. The leash will allow you to do so without having to grab at him/her. Depending on the dog you may not have to use it long but it can be a valuable tool.
And while we're talking about dog proofing, tie up loose wires, practice not leaving food out on counters/tables/etc, and put up anything you don't want chewed on (like shoes and remotes). Yes some dogs will never bother these things, and some can be trained to leave them alone, but the easiest thing to do is to never give the dog the opportunity to develop bad habits in the first place. Keep things simple, for example, if you don't want the dog drinking out of the toilet (which you shouldn't as it's unsanitary for all and possibly hazardous to the dog) close the lid.
What breed(s) are right for your lifestyle are just that so do research on breeds to get a better idea of what you like and what you want to avoid. Honestly though since you're going the rescue route I'd worry more about the individual dog's temperament/history then focusing on the breed(s) standard. A good rescue/shelter will help match you to a dog. Even if you find one on the adoption floor or on the internet (
http://www.Petfinder.com) keep an open mind. Try finding a rescue/shelter you want to work with and ask if they can contact you when they get in a dog that matches your criteria. A lot of dogs find homes this way and don't get shown to the public so don't miss out. And be realistic about what you can handle.
If you're willing you might consider fostering first as you'll get to know what it's like living with a dog before you commit to one. It can give you a better idea of what you do and don't want, and will be saving a dog's life and helping it get ready for adoption. Some rescues/shelters will let you adopt a foster if it works out, but some won't, so ask if this is something you're interested in. Plus the more you foster the more you'll learn about what you do and don't like in a dog. It's not for everyone, but it's something worth considering, and since the rescue/shelter should be providing vet care (any maybe other things, ask) you can take the extra time to stash away more money for your dog as you can never have enough in your emergency fund imo.
Remember to be consistent with your dog, don't allow them to do today what you don't want them to do tomorrow. You may think you're being nice by letting the dog get away with things since they're new, but you're really just setting them up for failure down the road. So decide now what the house rules are so you can teach them to your dog when it arrives home. Find a positive-reinforcement trainer before you bring your dog home in case you need them, though I recommend a basic classes regardless as it can help your dog learn manners and socialization, help you learn how to train, and help both of you to bond. You can try the following to start your search...
http://www.ccpdt.org/https://apdt.com/https://www.karenpryoracademy.com/find- ... kpctnavbarPositive-reinforcement training in general and clicker training specifically has been shown to be the best way to train a dog (or any other animal). They learn quicker, the retain the information longer, and it doesn't risk the extremely dangerous side effects of punishment based training. And ignore anyone who talks about dominance or pack leadership, that nonsense was debunked years ago.
As for what to train, I'd focus on the basics, potty training and basic house manners. But it will likely depend on the dog. If you have one that does a lot of reactive barking you might need to work on that sooner rather than later, same goes for leash pulling. And again, consistency is key. Decide what cues both verbal and non verbal you're going to use and see that you and anyone working with the dog (spouse, kids, dog walker etc.) follow through with that.
With a shorthaired dog you will likely need a coat in the winter, possibly even boots in those temps. Boots can be for summer too as pavement can be hot. You can put your hand on the pavement for a length of time (I think it's 30 seconds, but have never done it as we don't go outside in extreme temps anyway) to see if they need boots on a particular day. Paw butter can also offer some protection. Consider wiping your dog's feet when they come inside from a public place, you don't want them licking off any pesticides or salt. In extremely hot weather try to walk your dog in the early morning or evening when it's cooler, some dogs will need a bit of sunblock (made for dogs) on their noses, ears, etc. As far as the kiddie pool goes, that's up to your dog, some love water, some hate it. Check your dog for ticks every time they come inside and study up on how to remove one before you have to do it. I have a repellent spray I use for Chloe and there are a lot of things on the market.
Decide on your vet before hand and also know where the closest emergency vet is. Drive the route a couple of times if you can (different times of day even) and using alternate routes. You will be upset headed to emergency and that is not the first time you want to be diving that route. Put the vet and emergency vets numbers on the fridge as well as pet poison control (if you have one). Get a first aid kit together as well as a kit for evacuations if you live in a place where that is a possibility (many shelters will not allow dogs so know hotels that do or where else you can go)
Money wise I probably spent almost $750 on Chloe when I first got her. The adoption fee was $250, first vet visit was almost $400, there was food, supplement, bed, treats, steps for the bed, carrier for car which didn't work out, car seat, license, etc. I agree at least $1000 for emergencies but that may only get you in the door honestly (my er vet wanted a $750 hold on my credit card before they'd do anything). Actually treatment can climb into thousands of dollars, maybe even tens of thousands depending on what's wrong. I doubt most pet owners have that much available, I know I don't, but I want you to know that such bills do happen. Personally I like having pet insurance (I went with
https://www.healthypawspetinsurance.com/) I got quotes from multiple companies before Chloe's adoption was even finalized, quotes are free and some companies even donate to a rescue when you get a quote. You still have to have the money to pay the vet, but you get reimbursed from the insurance company.
If you can afford to put money away every month into a separate account that you don't touch that may be another way to go, but some people (myself included) would have trouble not touching it for other reasons. You may also want to consider something like CareCredit. Many vets take it and since it can only be used for certain things involving health care you're not as likely to run it up so it'll be there when you need it. It won't be enough if something goes extremely wrong but it's something. It works like a loan via a credit card, if you pay off the balance of a vet visit within a certain period of time you pay no interest, but the interest is high if you don't so know your limits. There are many agencies that help owners with emergencies expenses as well so you can look into that in case something comes up, but you won't be able to rely on this alone. Some vets offer payment plans but you should find out in advance both for your regular vet and the emergency vet
Here are some videos to help you out...
Brining Home A New Dog
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHHXfkk4qV4How to Use A Kong Toy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LwZI1isnvPQPotty Training
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvPiFcG7ROIClicker Training
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wv1uvvqaSwNo Mugging
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PRT6r6d79OUReward Scaling
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7XxG5KchQ8Alone Training
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGxhcb-itO4I know this seems overwhelming so take your time going through it. And give yourself a pat on the back for asking these things beforehand, in that you've made a good step towards owning a dog.
If you need more clarification or information on anything feel free to keep asking questions.
schistad; wrote: so i adopted a chocolate labrador last month around christmas. he is great but .. the most unmotivated dog i have ever owned. im used to my doberman who learns things usually in 10 minutes. i think my mastiff mix is smarter and more motivated than this dog. he just has no need for any treats or toys i have to offer him. he’ll sit for it - sure. but not do anything slightly difficult. like my doberman and mastiff mix get so hyped about food and will do anything for it. my labrador will lift his head and might put his nose to your hand or lay down but thats it. i dont know if this is part of the labrador personality as i have never owned one before but gee golly. it is so unmotivating to work with such a slow, unmotivated dog. any advice would mean so much. i wish i wouldve gotten a higher energy dog.
You may just not have found the right treats/toys, have you tried combining the two?. How do you feed him? You may want to try only feeing him through training. Also I'd recommend looking for other things to motivate him, praise, petting, access to the environment? Sometimes diet can play a role as well, dogs on a poor quality diet won't have as much energy. It might be worth trying some dog sports with him.
Also has he been to a vet to rule out underlying problems? Is he a rescue? It could also be he just isn't settled in yet. Also while most dogs thrive on routine maybe he'd be more motivated if you switched things up? Or the opposite, if you don't keep a schedule maybe he just doesn't feel secure yet?
Sorry, it's hard to say more without seeing the two of you together. Also try changing your tone of voice, some dogs will respond to a normal speaking voice others need more excitement from their trainer to get them excited.
Though honestly all the labs I've meet were overexcited.