Ti Locus
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STEP ONE wrote:Start by getting the base color down and then making the face and tail markings first.
For the face, the markings are thicker and curve around the eyebrows, a separate stripe usually being next to it. Under the eyes there is typically 2-3 stripes, one coming from the outer edge of the eye branching inwards, and one coming from the jaw curving inwards. There is typically another stripe between those two. Last stripes on the face come from the outer ends of the nose to come partially towards the inner corners of the eyes.
Stripes on the tail become thicker towards the tip and taper from the spine to the underside of the tail, ranging in 3-5 stripes total along the tail tip alone. Paws have the same dark color on the bottom around the pads
STEP TWO wrote:Create the ticking effect by taking a very small brush and making lines along the body in a stripe-like fashion. This can be tedious but creates the closest effect to the texturing on the real cats. They curve around the face as well. It is recommended to fade the outer/under edges for better blending.
STEP THREE wrote:Add the remaining stripes to the neck and legs. The stripes on the neck curve downward and forward, while the stripes on the legs curve forwards slightly in an uneven fashion.
FINAL STEPS wrote:Simply finish up by making the undercoat and any other missing features. You can add white, make them colorpoint, make them silver, or even tortoiseshell!
ALTERNATIVES wrote:Ticking can be difficult to recreate and often people use various shortcuts to make it easier. Most common are;
1. minimalizing the ticking to along the spine and fading when it gets closer to the legs
2. not having ticking at all and leaving the cat with just the stripes
3. using a small scatter brush on a separate layer to add the ticking and fading/adding effects afterwards
4. airbrushing the color of the stripes onto the back and top of the head
When it comes to non barred ticking, more ticking and less stripes will be needed.
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