
You see a dark shadowy figure. They approach you. "Join.. or.. suffer.. consequences.." She speaks in a muzzled tone. Will you accept, or decline the challenge?
Boardering Clans and Tribes:
This Is The Camp.

The Leader's Den.

The Deputy's Den.

The Warriors Den.

The Apprentices Den.

The Nursery.

The Elders Den.

Highrock.

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Meet The Clan
Leader;;
Stormstar|14 lives
Deputy;;
Appleswipe
Warriors;;
Bramblemoon
Firestorm
Dovepool
Apprentices;;
Queens;;
Stormstar (Leader)
Kits;;
Open
Elders;;
Open
Medicine Cat;;
Open
Medicine Cat Apprentice;;
Open
Evil Cats;;
Scar
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Battle Moves
Back Kick - Explosive surprise move to catch opponent from behind. Judge opponent's distance from you carefully, then lash out with your back legs, taking all weight on your front paws.[1]
Belly Rake - A fight-stopper. Slice with unsheathed claws against the soft flesh of the opponent's belly. If you're pinned down, the belly rake quickly puts you back into control.[1]
Front Paw Blow - Frontal attack. Bring your front paw down hard on your opponent's head. Claws sheathed.[1]
Front Paw Strike/Forepaw Slash - Frontal attack. Slice downward with your front paw at the face or body of your opponent.[1]
Killing Bite - A death blow to the back of the neck. Quick and silent and sometimes considered dishonorable. Used only as a last resort.[1]
Leap-and-hold - Ideal for a small cat facing a larger opponent. Spring onto opponent's back and grip with unsheathed claws. Now you are beyond the range of the opponent's paws and in position to inflict severe body wounds. A group of apprentices can defeat a large and dangerous warrior in this way. Watch for the drop-and-roll counter move, and try to jump free before you get squashed.[1]
Partner Fighting - Warriors who have trained and fought together will often fall instinctively into a defensive position, each protecting each other's back while fending off an opponent on either side. Slashing, clawing, and leaping together, battle pairs can be a whirlwind of danger for attackers.[2]
Play Dead - Effective in a tight situation, such as when you are pinned. Stop struggling and go limp. When your opponent relaxes his/her grip, thinking you are defeated, push yourself up explosively. This will throw off an unwary opponent and put you in attacking position.[2]
Scruff Shake - Secure a strong teeth grip in the scruff of your opponents neck; then shake violently until he or she is too rattled to fight back. Most effective against rats, who are small enough to throw. A strong throw will stun or kill them.[2]
Tail Yank - Grab your opponent's tail and yank it with such force your opponent is thrown off balance.
Teeth Grip - Target your opponent's extremities- the legs, tail, scruff or ears- and sink in your teeth and hold. This move is similar to the leap-and-hold except your claws remain free to fight.[2]
Upright Lock - Final, crushing move on already weakened opponent. Rear up on back legs and bring weight down on opponent. If opponent does the same, wrestle and flip him under you. This makes you vulnerable to the belly rake, so it takes great strength and speed.[2]
Half-Turn Belly Rake - Turn onto your side, slip under the opponent's belly, rake it with your claws, then swiftly turn back onto all fours out from under your opponent.[3]
Badger Defense: Leap over opponent, turn on your back legs and bite opponent's leg. Used only when fighting badgers.
Duck and Twist: Simple defensive move. The cat ducks then twists around, rolling over onto his/her back, and then springs to their paws.
Jump and pin: Complicated move. Leap backwards, and bounce off the wall. With precise accuracy, land on the cat.
Belly Rake - A fight-stopper. Slice with unsheathed claws against the soft flesh of the opponent's belly. If you're pinned down, the belly rake quickly puts you back into control.[1]
Front Paw Blow - Frontal attack. Bring your front paw down hard on your opponent's head. Claws sheathed.[1]
Front Paw Strike/Forepaw Slash - Frontal attack. Slice downward with your front paw at the face or body of your opponent.[1]
Killing Bite - A death blow to the back of the neck. Quick and silent and sometimes considered dishonorable. Used only as a last resort.[1]
Leap-and-hold - Ideal for a small cat facing a larger opponent. Spring onto opponent's back and grip with unsheathed claws. Now you are beyond the range of the opponent's paws and in position to inflict severe body wounds. A group of apprentices can defeat a large and dangerous warrior in this way. Watch for the drop-and-roll counter move, and try to jump free before you get squashed.[1]
Partner Fighting - Warriors who have trained and fought together will often fall instinctively into a defensive position, each protecting each other's back while fending off an opponent on either side. Slashing, clawing, and leaping together, battle pairs can be a whirlwind of danger for attackers.[2]
Play Dead - Effective in a tight situation, such as when you are pinned. Stop struggling and go limp. When your opponent relaxes his/her grip, thinking you are defeated, push yourself up explosively. This will throw off an unwary opponent and put you in attacking position.[2]
Scruff Shake - Secure a strong teeth grip in the scruff of your opponents neck; then shake violently until he or she is too rattled to fight back. Most effective against rats, who are small enough to throw. A strong throw will stun or kill them.[2]
Tail Yank - Grab your opponent's tail and yank it with such force your opponent is thrown off balance.
Teeth Grip - Target your opponent's extremities- the legs, tail, scruff or ears- and sink in your teeth and hold. This move is similar to the leap-and-hold except your claws remain free to fight.[2]
Upright Lock - Final, crushing move on already weakened opponent. Rear up on back legs and bring weight down on opponent. If opponent does the same, wrestle and flip him under you. This makes you vulnerable to the belly rake, so it takes great strength and speed.[2]
Half-Turn Belly Rake - Turn onto your side, slip under the opponent's belly, rake it with your claws, then swiftly turn back onto all fours out from under your opponent.[3]
Badger Defense: Leap over opponent, turn on your back legs and bite opponent's leg. Used only when fighting badgers.
Duck and Twist: Simple defensive move. The cat ducks then twists around, rolling over onto his/her back, and then springs to their paws.
Jump and pin: Complicated move. Leap backwards, and bounce off the wall. With precise accuracy, land on the cat.
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Medicine Cat Herbs
Poppy seeds- used to numb pain and make a cat very sleepy
Catmint - For whitecough and Greencough. Also exceptionaly tasty to cats that are not sick
Cobwebs - used to stop bleeding
Feaverfew - used to cool feverish cats and treat head pain
Blackberry Leaves- Bee stings
Borage Leaves - used to treat fevers and helps nursing mothers with their milk supply
Marigold - used to treat infection and heal wounds and sores
Horse Tail - used to treat infected wounds
Burdock root - used to treat infections, especially rat bites
Chervil Root - used to treat infections
Wild Garlic - rolling in this can help to keep out infection
Coltsfoot- used to treat kittencough
Catnip(also called catmint) - used to treat whitecough and greencough; can help to relax a cat
Chickweed- used to help treat greencough
Tansy - used to treat coughs
Thyme - used to calm a cat
Camomile - used to calm a cat
Dandelion Leaves- used to calm a cat
Juniper Berries - used to treat bellyache
Chervile- used to treat bellyache
Watermint - used to treat bellyache
Daisy Leaves - used to treat aching joints
Goldenrod- used in a poultice to treat aching joints and stiffness; can also be used for severe injuries.
Ragwort Leaves- used alongside juniper berries in a poultice to treat aching joints
Comfrey - used to treat broken bones
Nettle (leaves) - used to treat swelling
Calandine - used to treat ailments of the eyes
Snake Root - used to counter poison
Nettle (seeds) - used to counter poison
Honey - used to treat sore throats
Mouse bile - used to remove ticks from a cat's coat
Yarrow - used to make a cat vomit and expel poisons from the body
Other Plants
Dock leaves - used to make a cat's coat slippery; also can be used as a surface for vomiting.
Deathberries (Yew) - of no medicinal value; bright scarlet berries that can kill a cat if they are not expelled quickly enough; use yarrow (called night-seeds by the Tribe)
Nightshade - of no medicinal value; is poisonous
Holly (berries) - of no medicinal value; poisonous like deathberries
Catmint - For whitecough and Greencough. Also exceptionaly tasty to cats that are not sick
Cobwebs - used to stop bleeding
Feaverfew - used to cool feverish cats and treat head pain
Blackberry Leaves- Bee stings
Borage Leaves - used to treat fevers and helps nursing mothers with their milk supply
Marigold - used to treat infection and heal wounds and sores
Horse Tail - used to treat infected wounds
Burdock root - used to treat infections, especially rat bites
Chervil Root - used to treat infections
Wild Garlic - rolling in this can help to keep out infection
Coltsfoot- used to treat kittencough
Catnip(also called catmint) - used to treat whitecough and greencough; can help to relax a cat
Chickweed- used to help treat greencough
Tansy - used to treat coughs
Thyme - used to calm a cat
Camomile - used to calm a cat
Dandelion Leaves- used to calm a cat
Juniper Berries - used to treat bellyache
Chervile- used to treat bellyache
Watermint - used to treat bellyache
Daisy Leaves - used to treat aching joints
Goldenrod- used in a poultice to treat aching joints and stiffness; can also be used for severe injuries.
Ragwort Leaves- used alongside juniper berries in a poultice to treat aching joints
Comfrey - used to treat broken bones
Nettle (leaves) - used to treat swelling
Calandine - used to treat ailments of the eyes
Snake Root - used to counter poison
Nettle (seeds) - used to counter poison
Honey - used to treat sore throats
Mouse bile - used to remove ticks from a cat's coat
Yarrow - used to make a cat vomit and expel poisons from the body
Other Plants
Dock leaves - used to make a cat's coat slippery; also can be used as a surface for vomiting.
Deathberries (Yew) - of no medicinal value; bright scarlet berries that can kill a cat if they are not expelled quickly enough; use yarrow (called night-seeds by the Tribe)
Nightshade - of no medicinal value; is poisonous
Holly (berries) - of no medicinal value; poisonous like deathberries
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Cat Language
● Touching noses - “I like you!”
● Lick on the cheek - “I really like you.”
● Lick on the ear - Comforting.
● Lick on forehead - “I love you!” / “Will you be my mate?”
● Brushing tail on back or flank - Calming.
● Lick under/on belly - “I want kits.”
● Touching nose to cheek - “I’m happy for you” / Comforting.
● Nuzzle - Comfort / “You’re hilarious!” (The second is for mates)
● Touch nose to cheek - “I’m glad you’re here.” (For lovers)
● Lick own chest fur - To hide embarrassment.
● Lick on the shoulder - Respect.
● Lick on the tail - “Will you be my mate?”
● Lick on the paw - “You are my friend!”
● Lick below the chin - “I want you forever!”
● Lick on the nose - “Do you want to play?”
● Rubs tail anywhere - Flirty, comforting or curious.
● Rubbing against you - “I like you.” / “Don’t worry.” / “I love you.”
● Licking constantly - Cleaning.
● Flat ears - “Back off!”
● Bares teeth - “Get away from me!"
● Lunging at you - “Back off now!”
● Roll on your back - “You are stronger than me, I respect you.”
● Tail tucked - Scared.
● Growling/Hissing/Spitting - Angry or accenting
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Tail Signals
Tail Held Erect - Stop.
Tail Rippling - Move forward, with care.
Tail Held Erect and Sweeping from side to side - Retreat Silently.
Tail Pointing Low, Parallel to ground, and sweeping - Spread Out.
Tail Bobbing - Enemy Sighted.
Tail Hooked - Danger.
Tail Pointed - Go That Way.
Tail held Erect and waving from side to side - Stay Behind Me.
Tail Kinked over Back - Follow Me.
Tail Rippling - Move forward, with care.
Tail Held Erect and Sweeping from side to side - Retreat Silently.
Tail Pointing Low, Parallel to ground, and sweeping - Spread Out.
Tail Bobbing - Enemy Sighted.
Tail Hooked - Danger.
Tail Pointed - Go That Way.
Tail held Erect and waving from side to side - Stay Behind Me.
Tail Kinked over Back - Follow Me.
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Hunting Techniques
unter's Crouch - Keep your body low with your tail sticking straight ahead. Hind legs must be ready to leap and front paws must be ready to pounce. Is also a good fighting techinique.
Fishing Catch - When fishing in a lake or river.keep your reflection away from the water. When the fish comes, quickly hook your paw into the water and scoop the fish onto the surface. Finish it off with a quick killing bit.
Squirrel Race - When the squirrel runs up a tree to escape, you quickly run up the trunk beside the squirrel until your fast enough to block it to the top of the tree. You chase it down next and hopefully catch it. Very complicated technique.
Bird Leap - When the bird is aware that it is being hunted and begins to fly up, you leap as high as you can and bat the bird back down. Recommended for older apprentices to learn.
Mouse Stalker - Keep your pawsteps light on the ground and try to slide them so the mouse won't feel your pawsteps.
Rabbit Fishing - A techinique when you are desperate for prey. Find a rabbit hole and make sure a rabbit's in there. Then, wait silently until rabbit's head pops out. Scoop it out like you are fishing, and hopefully catch it.
Fishing Catch - When fishing in a lake or river.keep your reflection away from the water. When the fish comes, quickly hook your paw into the water and scoop the fish onto the surface. Finish it off with a quick killing bit.
Squirrel Race - When the squirrel runs up a tree to escape, you quickly run up the trunk beside the squirrel until your fast enough to block it to the top of the tree. You chase it down next and hopefully catch it. Very complicated technique.
Bird Leap - When the bird is aware that it is being hunted and begins to fly up, you leap as high as you can and bat the bird back down. Recommended for older apprentices to learn.
Mouse Stalker - Keep your pawsteps light on the ground and try to slide them so the mouse won't feel your pawsteps.
Rabbit Fishing - A techinique when you are desperate for prey. Find a rabbit hole and make sure a rabbit's in there. Then, wait silently until rabbit's head pops out. Scoop it out like you are fishing, and hopefully catch it.
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The Warrior Code
Defend your Clan, even with your life. You may have friendships with cats from other Clans, but your loyalty must remain to your Clan, as one day you may meet them in battle.
Do not hunt or trespass on another Clan's territory.
Elders, queens, and kits must be fed before apprentices and warriors. Unless they have permission, apprentices may not eat until they have hunted to feed the elders. If any warrior or apprentice is sick or injured, they may eat while the elders, queens, and kits are eating.
Prey is killed only to be eaten. Give thanks to StarClan for its life.
A kit must be at least six moons old to become an apprentice.
Newly appointed warriors will keep a silent vigil for one night after receiving their warrior name.
A cat cannot be made deputy without having mentored at least one apprentice.
The deputy will become Clan leader when the leader dies, retires or is exiled.
After the death or retirement of the deputy, the new deputy must be chosen before moonhigh.
A Gathering of all four Clans is held at the full moon during a truce that lasts for the night. There shall be no fighting among Clans at this time.
Boundaries must be checked and marked daily. Challenge all trespassing cats.
No warrior can neglect a kit in pain or danger, even if the kit is from a different Clan.
The word of the Clan Leader is the warrior code.
An honorable warrior does not need to kill other cats to win his/her battles, unless they are outside the warrior code or if it is necessary for self-defense.
A warrior rejects the soft life of a kittypet.
Do not hunt or trespass on another Clan's territory.
Elders, queens, and kits must be fed before apprentices and warriors. Unless they have permission, apprentices may not eat until they have hunted to feed the elders. If any warrior or apprentice is sick or injured, they may eat while the elders, queens, and kits are eating.
Prey is killed only to be eaten. Give thanks to StarClan for its life.
A kit must be at least six moons old to become an apprentice.
Newly appointed warriors will keep a silent vigil for one night after receiving their warrior name.
A cat cannot be made deputy without having mentored at least one apprentice.
The deputy will become Clan leader when the leader dies, retires or is exiled.
After the death or retirement of the deputy, the new deputy must be chosen before moonhigh.
A Gathering of all four Clans is held at the full moon during a truce that lasts for the night. There shall be no fighting among Clans at this time.
Boundaries must be checked and marked daily. Challenge all trespassing cats.
No warrior can neglect a kit in pain or danger, even if the kit is from a different Clan.
The word of the Clan Leader is the warrior code.
An honorable warrior does not need to kill other cats to win his/her battles, unless they are outside the warrior code or if it is necessary for self-defense.
A warrior rejects the soft life of a kittypet.
Mates
> She Likes Him
< He Likes Her
= Mates
</3 Widdowed
<*3 Mates With Kits
Hauntedsoul = Dawnheart
Stormstar <*3 Appleswipe
Firestorm > < Flamewing
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Mods: Scythe. (Me)
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