Dog Owner Chat V. 5

[Ja984]

I"m just curious, does fish oil make your dogs smell?

[Imzadi83]

I"m just curious, does fish oil make your dogs smell?

Not that I'm aware of, at least not the kind you add to their diet. I guess if you poured in on them (don't know why you would) it would smell. Some people say anal gland secretions have a "fishy" smell so I guess if someone smelled that after just starting their dog on fish oil they might incorrectly blame the fish oil.

[Cardinal]

I need help. So my older dog (Penny) is definitely the "alpha" of the house. My other dog (Cali) is really submissive and will show her belly, move for Penny to lay somewhere, give Penny her food/chews, etc.. Penny resource guards any food, even any thought of food but it's only off and on.

The other day, I had left a kong wobbler in Cali's kennel to slow down her eating. We left to look at Christmas lights and came back, and let them outside. My dad, my brother and I were in the next room while my mom was in the playroom, which is where the door is to the outside. She let them in and they almost immediately got into a fight. I didn't see what exactly happen, my mom said Cali was even in her kennel, and Penny went after her, which is weird behavior for Penny to guard something in Cali's kennel. They are very well kennel trained and most of the time stay out of each other's kennels (except some weird days where they go into the same kennel, those lesbeans)

Their fights aren't terribly bad to break up, and only result in tooth scrapes/minor punctures so I'm not too worried about it, but I was wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks to get her to stop guarding things? She's a lot better than she was (she used to generally guard, so sometimes she would guard a space in the backyard from dogs, or the playroom area) but she cut that out. I know, don't leave treats and food and stuff laying around, but other than that?

There was another time where Penny hadn't finished her food, so Cali went in there and was eating on it. Penny hopped off of my lap and started a fight while Cali was trying to get away. She turns really quickly and doesn't usually give warning.

In all honesty the absolute best way to curb resource guarding behavior is strict management and not allowing it to be practised. Resource guarding is the fear/insecurity that a resource (food, toys, even owner affection) will be taken away or stolen. Our late dog was VERY VERY bad about resource guarding and generally dog and cat aggressive, our habit when she was alive and now with our currents (not as strict but know thy dog is my motto, I know what items are not valued enough to cause issues) is ANY food is given in a shut crate, dogs must wait for the release to eat (impulse control), food bowls are removed after each feed whether theres leftovers or not, chews are in shut crates or seperate rooms and removed before the dogs are put back together, toys are for crate or outside only and dog specific (Sardonyx likes only one toy and Sentry is not allowed it).
Now, with our currants we are still very strict with resources but Lucky is 15 and doesnt crate so Sardonyx and Sentry learned early and fast Lucky is 100% to be left alone no matter what she has or is doing (strong ‘leave its’ surround her, redirection back to me, and I have let her correct them when they were puppies as I knew she would warn strongly with clear body language then growl and snap with 0 escalation to a fight).

On top of management practising impluse control can help (look up puppy zen techniques) and reinforcing a solid ‘leave it’ in various settings. Mine! is a great book and I’ll get the author in just a momment

Edit: Mine! A practical guide to resource guarding in dogs - Jean Donaldson

[Imzadi83]

I need help. So my older dog (Penny) is definitely the "alpha" of the house. My other dog (Cali) is really submissive and will show her belly, move for Penny to lay somewhere, give Penny her food/chews, etc.. Penny resource guards any food, even any thought of food but it's only off and on.

The other day, I had left a kong wobbler in Cali's kennel to slow down her eating. We left to look at Christmas lights and came back, and let them outside. My dad, my brother and I were in the next room while my mom was in the playroom, which is where the door is to the outside. She let them in and they almost immediately got into a fight. I didn't see what exactly happen, my mom said Cali was even in her kennel, and Penny went after her, which is weird behavior for Penny to guard something in Cali's kennel. They are very well kennel trained and most of the time stay out of each other's kennels (except some weird days where they go into the same kennel, those lesbeans)

Their fights aren't terribly bad to break up, and only result in tooth scrapes/minor punctures so I'm not too worried about it, but I was wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks to get her to stop guarding things? She's a lot better than she was (she used to generally guard, so sometimes she would guard a space in the backyard from dogs, or the playroom area) but she cut that out. I know, don't leave treats and food and stuff laying around, but other than that?

There was another time where Penny hadn't finished her food, so Cali went in there and was eating on it. Penny hopped off of my lap and started a fight while Cali was trying to get away. She turns really quickly and doesn't usually give warning.

First off Penny isn't being an alpha, she is just resource guarding Penny being a bully. Is she resource guarding only from Cali or from you as well?

Because fights have already broke out I would recommend contacting a positive reinforcement based trainer and/or behaviorist to help you deal with this problem. You will need to do things like teach the Penny trade, teach impulse control, and use counter-conditioning. I'd also recommend training Penny not to go into Cali's kennel. Give them a separate, larger bed if they want to share and use barrier training and management to keep Penny out of Cali's. Cali's kennel should be a safe space where she can get away from Penny, not another place Penny is allowed to invade. They could be friends and Penny just wants to snuggle, or it could be Penny is a bully and is just pushing Cali around because Cali takes it and no-one is intervening on her behalf. So while it may seem and be cute for the moment, one day Cali may decide she's had enough and you could wind up with serious injuries. Not to mention this is all very unfair and stressful for Cali and could later take a toll on her health. Cali deserves some say in when she wants to share her bed and when she doesn't.

I'll link you to some tutorials but here's the breakdown...

Trade Game - Give Penny something of low value, like a toy or a boring piece of food. Offer something of higher value (like a piece of meat) she gets the meat, you get the toy; rinse and repeat. Eventually you want to up the value of what you're taking away from her and put what she gets in return on a variable reinforcement schedule (sometimes she gets something great sometimes not-so great but she keeps playing in the hopes of hitting the jackpot. If you feel she's at risk of biting you or your just nervous you can leave a trail of treats away from the original object.

Impulse Control - Work on things like waiting to go outside, sitting before eating, teach "leave it" etc.

Counter-Conditioning - Teach Penny that Cali being near her food is a good thing because A) you never allow Cali to take her food, and, B) Better food rains down from the sky when Cali is nearby. I'd recommend doing this in in their kennels, with them restrained on leashes and harnesses, or at least with a baby gate separating them; but be prepared to move them further apart in order to keep Penny under threshold. Give Cali a treat, give Penny a treat. Give Cali dinner give Penny dinner, Give Cali a chew, give Penny a chew. If Penny looks at Cali (but doesn't act with aggression) give Penny another treat, preferably a better one. You want Penny to start to realize that Cali is the predictor of food, not a reason to fear that food being taken away. Do your best to keep Penny under threshold, watch her body language, if you see her body tense up you're going too fast, back it up.

All that being said the key here, forever, is going to be management. Honestly no matter how well all this training goes I would not recommend leaving the two of them unsupervised around food ever. It just isn't worth the risk, and it isn't necessary for the dogs to live healthy, happy lives. In the case of what happened, I'd recommend everyone being more diligent about checking for an removing food from Cali's kennel so Penny isn't tempted to go in after it. Once penny is secured back in her kennel (or someplace else) then you can give Cali back the food.

Also in regards to meals if Penny is finishing up her food and getting upset because Cali is still eating either feed them separately where they can't see each other to being with, or use a feeding method that slows down Penny's eating so Cali gets done first.

And remember training/learning is not one linear path, be prepared that sometimes you may have to go back a step or several. Take your time, don't rush through the process, and be consistent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ie4efzjQsbQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jumqlWhUaw&t=67s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEeS2dPpPtA&t=42s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msCmMaYtjpI&index=3&list=PL756D0A827EF9134C
https://www.patriciamcconnell.com/theotherendoftheleash/resource-guarding-dog-to-dog

[Bailey;.]

Last few days my seizures have been kicking my butt and making my S/O worried sick because I’ve apparently stopped breathing a couple times. This girl has been my rock too the past few days ❤️

[Cardinal]

Although I would love to get someone to train these dogs other than me, we really don’t have the money for it.

I think I mentioned, but Penny only guards every once in a while, so when we’re training, Penny is completely fine with Cali being near her while they both chow down or if only Cali gets something.

They haven’t fought in over a year, the most recent fight was with the wobbler. I know how to read my dog’s language, and when they are in the kennel together, they’re both very loose. I’ve taught my dogs most of the things you listed, but I live with three other people and they don’t always follow what I teach the dogs (sitting and waiting to go outside/ sitting waiting to get out of the kennels/ holding stay/ etc..) and with me working 40 hours minimum, it’s hard to keep them on a strict training. She’s never guarded from humans, I take her things all the time. They hardly ever go into each other’s kennels unless something they want is in there (like leftover food) but that hardly happens anymore since they know their ground. Like I said, I know my dogs. I’m not scared of Penny biting me (not Cali for that matter) but also like what I said, I steal her things all the time. Penny does watch Cali eat, but they almost always eat with the doors closed and locked, so even if anything were to happen, nothing can. Penny, also like I said, doesn’t deliberately go after Cali whenever Cali has something. We can give them chews and they can be in the same rooms no problem, or leave their kennel doors unlocked, because it is super rare that Penny will start something.

You asked for help with tips and tricks and the only real advice we can give you, that actually works effectively with minimal effort or training, is management. Everyone has to be on board. A fight cant happen when the reason that causes a fight has been addressed; potentionally attainable resources in this case. I know how hard getting family on board is (oh jeebus do I know) but you may want to have a sit down with very easy rules to follow like no food left out, toys only in shut crates, (etc what would realistically cancel out fights in your particular household) and express it from a place of concern. It only takes one fight to result in a serious injury or death. My late dog did a swift bite and release over a toy and ruptured one of Luckys lymph nodes leading to a nice vet bill and weeks of treatment. Being rare (and we only had 2 instances in 4yrs) doesnt mean that they absolutely dont happen. This isnt slamming you or me trying to be ugly, not at all. Ive been here, dealt with guarding, and practise management with my own crew because of past expriences. Resource guarding is actually a totally natural, although undesirable, behavior.

[eleutheromania]

when the rain finally clears up for a day and you are without a car that day,
ended up worked on his stay a little before the UPS guy interrupted us by
walking up to the carport to deliver their stuff xD. Loki was quiet and eager
to get attention which is a huge plus from his usually little dog front that
we have been working on whenever company is over.

[Radoppie]

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[Imzadi83]

hi!!
this is my dog munchkin shes a 2 year old terrier mix and like i was wondering if any of yall knew how to teach dog to speak without teasing with treats??
because it doesnt work shes too dumb to bark even if shes hella frustrated 😂

OMG she's so adorable!

You can try capturing, this is easier to do if she's clicker trained. What you do is wait until she barks on her own then mark and reward. Keep doing this until she she starts to offer the behavior then put it on cue.

Will she make any sound when she's frustrated? Even if she just whines a little you can mark and reward that. Keep working till she offers a little louder whine then reward that with a jackpot. When she's doing the louder whine more only reward (normally) and jackpot any louder sound. Keeping upping the criteria slowly until she offers a good bark.

Also the reason you're having problems is that your reward may just not be good enough and you may need to try something else.

Charging a Clicker https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvw2bcGcoDk (you can use another sound or a marker word if you like)

[ᴇᴜᴛᴏɴʏ]

Heyo !!

So, I am currently too young to own a dog on my own nor do I have space, but
I have always wanted a German Shepherd and was wondering if anyone had tips
for owning a dog of the sort. I only have experience with Labradors.