Snakes

[kivr & fireflii]

I found with my snakes, and usually the problem with others, is that when you switch from live to f/t, there are three big factors that make a ball python not switch:

1. Smell. Sometimes it just doesn't have a strong enough scent to trigger a feeding response. Scenting helps a lot, but sometimes even using poor bedding may not help. The first time I tried scenting, I went to petsmart/petco for some used bedding. It was like a soft, colorful, almost paper-y bedding. It didn't hold scent well, so it didn't work. The next time I went to a small, local exotic pet store. They used a pellet-like bedding that held scent VERY well (probably because it may have been older, less fresh, and/or much more live rats than a small few). It was very easy for me to smell, so when I used it to scent, it helped "soak" the smell a lot more than the other bedding. When you do it, it may also not help as much if you just rub the bedding on. What I had to do was heat up my thawed rat WITH the bedding for about 20min to get it to really smell.

2. Temperature. There are tons of ways to thaw your rat and each individual snake have different thresholds for triggering a feeding response. Some, usually adults who are used to eating f/t, will eat a rat at room temperature. For those switching from live to f/t, it's usually necessary to get the temperature to mimic a live rat. Typically the body temperature of a live one is about 100F, but I found--personally for my snakes--they took it at around 90F+ when they first switched.

3. Movement. This one, I feel, is a small aspect, but one that can help a lot. When I feed, using tongs of course, I find it really helped to wiggle the rat slightly to mimic live movements. Nothing too fast, but just small, short shakes or slow back/forth movements. This, coupled with the right temperature and smell, is often good enough to entice them to eat (given proper husbandry, namely correct temperatures for digestion and enough cover/hides to feel safe).

That being said, I mentioned that some methods work well for others and some don't. Just in case, if its your preference, this is the method I personally use: I put the rats in a ziploc bag and move them from the freezer to the fridge the night before I feed them the next day (so about 24hr to thaw). The next night, when I feed, I fill a cup of water from the sink and put it in the microwave for 50sec (just because my sink doesn't heat water fast). Then I put the ziploc bag with the rats in the cup and submerge them (usually with something on top to stop them from floating like a rubber duck, another cup, etc.) for 20 minutes. [Back when I was switching them from live to f/t, I put the used bedding in the ziploc bag with the rats before I submerged them in the cup of hot water.] After the 20 minutes, I just used tongs to feed them (grabbing them behind the shoulders instead of by the tail helps make it look a bi more natural, as well with a little "zombie dance" to make them look alive). Since you're working on switching them from live to f/t, it may be useful to check their temperature with a temperature gun before you feed. You might have to change out the water and heat it up again if it's not high enough. When I was first switching, I would also hit the rats (all over, but mostly head) with a blow dryer on low heat for about 5-10 seconds. If they get wet from the cup, it may be useful to also dry them (some snakes may not like wet prey).

I also fed live until 300g before I tried switching them over. You don't want to risk having an already thin snake going on feed. I stuck to the normal feeding schedule, but if they didn't eat 3 attempts in a row, I would feed a live one (you want them to switch, but not to starve them until they're hungry enough to eat!). Make sure not to move them from the enclosure as the movement can stress them out (as well as cause them to regurgitate after eating when you move them back into their normal enclosure). Feeding at night--since they're nocturnal--helps as well as no handling or bothering 24hr before feeding. Sometimes deep cleaning the enclosure two or so days before feeding can help. I've also seen some snakes that will react to a still rat suddenly being dropped (it's weird, but it worked once for mine, but he was already an established f/t eater). Double and triple check your temperature, humidity, and set up. Low temperatures can make them go off feed since they need the heat to properly and efficient digest. They also need enough hides/cover to feel safe enough to digest, so if it's too open, that can be a small factor that prevents them from eating. I've also even seen a few snakes that will only strike if they're really pestered, but I wouldn't recommend this off the bat since it can really stress your snake out into not eating even further.

The main thing to keep in mind is to just be patient. If he looses too much weight, don't worry about switching back to live. Keep in mind some snakes may never switch, and sometimes it can take many months. It took one of mine about 8-9 months to fully switch over, but the other switched right away.
-firefli

[~Tornado~]

Oh my word thank you so much this is really really helpful! I will definitely keep these things in mind next time I feed him thank you!

[Circean]

Hello everybody!~
I am new here, but just wanted to talk about my girlie.
I have a young red tailed boa, she is probably around 4-5 months old (maybe 1.5 feet longish) and suuuuper sweet!
She has tried striking at me before, but that is kind of a boa's temperament when they are in a touchy mood (shedding/eating/still digesting). She has bitten one of my friends before, although she was about to shed (her eyes were blue and fogged out) so i figured that is was because she was scared and he grabbed her a little too quickly and aggressively. When she isn't shedding\eating she is an absolute angel.

[~Tornado~]

aww she sounds awesome!

[LeonHeart]

I am writing a snake book, where i list down statistics about snakes, and i am needing some help. pm me for more info

[CanineHaywire]

I live in a desert and see kings and rattlesnakes a lot. I myself have owned snakes and lizards of all kinds. However, due to space, I just have my two beardeds and a ball python. My Snicker Noodle does great in this weather (his tank keeps his temps at a steady 84 with 50% humidity). I also like him because he is just there. I don't need to worry about handling him as you would with an iguana. He eats his f/t medium rats every two weeks and can differentiate between tongs and hands. He's about 3ft now and he's just a gem, I love him. I plan on getting a rack with my taxes to buy a couple more bp's. Pic attached is of him when he was 6-7 months old.

[Blumenkranz]

Oh he’s beautiful!! I want a ball python so badly but currently don’t have the room for one ;_;

[~Tornado~]

Ah he's so cute!

[Jones.]

Hi guys! So I've decided to take the plunge and buy my first ever snake! I've always wanted one but never really had the guts to commit but now is a perfect time for me. I've spoke to a few people and done some research and a corn snake was recommended to me, which is the breed I wanted anyway. I just wanted to know if you had any tips for a beginner? I've owned lizards before but they're obviously not the same thing.

[~Tornado~]

First of all a corn snake is a perfect choice
I'm actually going to copy paste some tips I was giving someone earlier and edit and go off them

My tips are
Don't feed it too often once a week is good if you're feeding it the right size I'm sure you've been told it's feeding schedule

Glass cages aren't always the best, they release a lot of heat so you have to be careful my milk snake is in a glass terrarium and her heat and humidity escapes a lot compared to my ball pythons' plastic cages

Make sure the humidity is high enough especially when the snake is in shed! Because we've had some stuck shed with our milkie and had to remove it be hand because it was to dry for her to shed properly
We try to keep her humidity between 40-60% all the time now I'd look up Corn snake humidity they're probably very similar

Give the snake a few days without handling it when you first get it, I've heard as low as 3 days and up to a week

Feed with tongs they're docile snakes but you don't want to get accidentally bit when feeding

Make sure it has atleast one hide!

If you're getting it from any old pet store check for mites and respiratory issues It should be fine, but you never know with big pet stores, if you're getting it from a trusted store or breeder you should be good to go

Random fact, when you're holding them if they get up to your body temperature it can be really hard to feel them and they might slither off of you so keep track of them if you're holding it! I've had my milk snake Azula slide off and hide in the couch because I didn't feel her crawl out of my shirt

Feeding in cage vs out of cage doesn't actually matter, a lot of people including me thought it did but apparently it doesn't effect the temperament of the snake and it's actually less stressful to eat in their cage

I'm guessing you a lot of these things since you've owned lizards but good luck with your first snake!